By: Bella Bucchiotti | Wealth of Geeks
Last year, a record 1.65 million people visited Alaska by cruise, 23% more than in 2019, the prior landmark year, with popular cruise lines also reporting double-digit growth. The vast majority traveled via the Inside Passage, a 500-mile route departing in Seattle or Vancouver and ending in Juneau, and one of the few waterways where large cruise ships sail in proximity to such towering mountains and abundant wildlife.
A cruise through the quintessential Inside Passage whisks you through placid waters packed with whales. See temperate rainforests filled with rare animals, snow-capped mountains, and fjords spiking thousands of feet out of the sea. Visit remote fishing villages and indigenous communities only accessible by sea or air. All set against the backdrop of luxury accommodations, fine dining, and entertainment.
The commercial $1.87 billion Alaska Cruise industry is ubiquitous in Alaska, with 60% of travelers arriving by boat. But a cruise liner teeming with tourists and cookie-cutter excursions isn’t the only way to experience this rugged North American Frontier. Travelers with a DIY spirit and taste for adventure can create their own Inside Passage itinerary based on local ferry services.
Taking a Ferry Through the Inside Passage
The ferry system began in the early 1960s as a way for Canada and the United States to connect communities along their respective shores of the Inside Passage. The Canadian government created the BC Ferry system. The Alaska State government created the Alaska Marine Highway System.
Today, people use it to travel to the most far-flung destinations of the Inside Passage. Ships in both countries offer rooms with private bathrooms. Passengers can choose comfortable indoor and outdoor seating with the same views as cruise ships. Cafeterias, found aboard every boat, serve hot food as well. Drivers and RVers can bring their vehicles, and most pets are welcome. Some Inside Passage ferries hold as many as 2,000 people and even have a movie theater.
Trips vary in length. Expect to spend one to three nights aboard, depending on the embarkation and final destination. Unlike a cruise, passengers can only disembark at the Port on their ticket. However, the captain still announces major points of attraction and animal sightings.
Departures are limited, often once a week, and tickets sell out, especially for vehicles, so travelers should book online in advance. Also, Wi-Fi is extremely limited, so plan for digital austerity.
The Canadian and U.S. systems connect in Prince Rupert, British Columbia. However, the route will not run in 2024, and there is no timeline for reopening. The Alaska Marine Highway website cites “international service regulations and crewing shortages.” The issue is the aging Alaska fleet, which doesn’t meet the Canadian government’s standards for porting at Prince Rupert.
Where Can You Take the Inside Passage Ferry?
Both the Canadian and U.S. ferries allow you to bask in the scenery and travel beyond a typical cruise excursion.
The Canadian portion of the Inside Passage opens the door to some of the most remote places in British Colombia. The journey begins at Bear Cove, a port in Port Hardy on North Vancouver Island. Most people arrive by ferry from Vancouver and enjoy a scenic road trip up the coast along Highway 19. From indigenous points of interest and quirky museums to wildlife viewing and hiking, the drive to the ferry is an experience in itself.
From Bear Cove, it’s a 16-hour, one-night trip through the Inside Passage to Prince Rupert, an old salmon canning town located on the far northern edge of British Colombia. It’s a great place to stroll quaint village streets or set up other journeys. You can hike, kayak, or explore Pike Island, an archeological tour of pre-historic settlements.
Potential stops along the way to Prince Rupert are the small indigenous communities of Bella Bella or Klemtu in the Great Bear Rainforest. Both are gateways to paddling, diving, wildlife viewing, and other backwoods experiences. Klemtu is the starting point for sea-faring adventures to Haida Gwaii, a remote archipelago, and Bella Coola, a village at the foot of the inland mountains.
The Alaska Marine Highway covers more territory. Its Inside Passage route runs three nights and two days from Bellingham, in Washington State, to Juneau, the state capital.
From Juneau, the ferry system has day boats to several smaller, interesting outposts. In Sitka, you can visit homesteaders and bear rescues while learning about its Russian and indigenous history. Haines, referred to as the Adventure Capital of Alaska, is home to over 400 bald eagles and a mountainous backcountry where hiking, kayaking, and fishing are a way of life. An hour from Haines is Skagway and the start of the beloved 8-hour, 25-mile White Pass Scenic Railroad.
Gustavo, a 4-6 hour ferry or 30-minute seaplane flight from Juneau, is the most popular connection from Juneau, as the closest town with accommodations to Glacier Bay National Park. From Gustavo, travelers can work with the National Park Service or other outfitters to plan a visit.
Although it’s grown in popularity in recent years, a lot of commercial cruises do not offer trips to Glacier Bay. The park only permits two commercial ships daily. Princess Cruises, Holland America, Norwegian Cruise Lines, Carnival, Seabourne Cruise, Viking Cruises, and Royal Caribbean Cruises all have contracts with the park.
Along the way to Juneau, the ferry stops at many of the same ports as the quintessential Inside Passage Cruise. In Ketchikan, just 38 hours from Bellingham, you can hike the temperate rainforests or hop in a low-flying bush plane over the 3,000-foot walls of the Misty Fjords National Monument.
Six hours from Ketchikan, near Wrangell, explorers can check out the ancient carvings in Petroglyph Bear State Historic Site or take a jet boat up the Stikine River into the dramatic snowy peaks ahead. A stop in Petersburg is also the start of an epic 2-day kayaking trip to the LeConte glacier, 20 miles away.
Many commercial cruises offer excursions into the wilderness of British Colombia and Alaska. The ferry offers travelers more control and a starting point to explore further.
Cost vs. Value
It can be challenging to compare the cost of a ferry and a cruise because many of the costs of cruising are not apparent in the initial offer. Cabins on large commercial ships may start at $100 per night. But they typically don’t include food, alcohol, or excursions, which can cost hundreds of dollars per person daily. Most travelers should expect to budget between $3,000 and $5,000 per person for an average 7-night Alaska Cruise.
The ferry, on the other hand, is easier to calculate, though not exactly cheap. The cost changes per port, size of vehicle, and cabin selection. For example, it’s about $600 for one person and a cabin from Bellingham to Juneau, but an additional $1,116 is needed to bring your SUV.
Passengers can bring their own food or eat out of the cafeteria, which costs between $10 and $25 per meal. Once on shore, consider accommodations, guides, and meals.
An Inside Passage Ferry Puts More Adventure at Your Fingertips
The draw, then, isn’t massive savings, though the ferry is usually less expensive. It’s more about connecting with real backcountry. Travel closer to the people and spend more time enjoying its bounties — at least more authentically than a port of call on a cruise will allow.
This article was produced by Media Decision and syndicated by Wealth of Geeks.
